The Secret of Grand Gulch, Utah
To put it very simply, the secret of Grand Gulch is that it is perhaps one of the best-kept secrets, as it contains one of the largest concentrations of some of the best-preserved ancient Puebloan cliff dwellings and rock art anywhere in the Southwest. Based on the license plates on cars parked at Grand Gulch trailheads, it seems pretty clear that it is not much of a secret in Colorado. But based on past experience, it is rare to find someone who has even heard of Grand Gulch, and that was the case again when talking to people before the trip. Not one person knew where we were going, and that has generally been the case since I started exploring the canyon many years ago.
What makes Grand Gulch so impressive is that, despite many sites being hundreds and even thousands of years old, many are incredibly well preserved thanks to the people who placed them in well-protected shelters and to those who have done their part to protect the delicate environment; certainly, some more than others. Many cliff dwellings still have intact roofs and walls built of mud and stone, and even mud-and-stick structures (called wattle and daub) still resting high up on cliffs, still almost completely intact and still coated in their original mud plaster.
The land itself is an expanse of stunning beauty, with Monument Valley visible in the distance from much of the rim, and a deep labyrinth of red-rock canyons that drain towards the San Juan River, which formed some of the most iconic landscapes in the Southwest. It is a sacred place to many, including the region’s indigenous people, who still go there for connection and ceremony to this day. Should you decide to visit the Grand Gulch after reading this post or otherwise, do your part to show care and respect that this special place deserves.
Exploring the Land of the Ancients
In April of 2026, we set out to backpack 30 miles through some of the roughest and most remote terrain in Utah, the Grand Gulch. The daunting nature of travel through this region was a primary reason many went out of their way to find routes around it, before heavy equipment and dynamite could blast away the landscape to pave the roads we use today. It is located approximately 35 to 45 miles west of Blanding, Utah, on SR 95, or 33 miles north of Mexican Hat, Utah, via US-163 and UT-261, which navigates a breathtaking, but steep (10-11% grade), and winding section of dirt road that traverses the cliff face of the Cedar Mesa called the Moki Dugway. It is one of the most scenic roads in Utah, but not recommended for large RVs or other large vehicles due to the steep grade, numerous switchbacks, narrow road sections, and proximity to the cliff face.
It had been many years since I had been to the Grand Gulch, and even decades since I had been back to some sections we were going to explore. Like many trips, my excitement increased as the trip neared, but so too did my concerns about finding water along our way. Our trip was set to start during the most severe winter drought conditions ever recorded in Utah, and we would be backpacking in the most extreme drought conditions I had ever experienced in the region. Field reports indicated that many of the springs were dry or nearly dry, and standing pools of water would likely be our best chance of finding water. That is, pools of water that evaporate and become less suitable for drinking by the day without additional precipitation.
Typically, water is abundant throughout much of the canyon in April due to late-winter rains and snowmelt. But this was not a typical year by any stretch. Having spent more than two decades exploring Grand Gulch and the Cedar Mesa area, I still felt confident we would find water. Though it may not be the best-looking or tasting. Adding to the unknowns, we would be backpacking several miles of canyon that none of us had explored before. We did not know what to expect in terms of water access in that section, and we would also be traversing one of the most challenging sections of the canyon to get there, which meant, at a certain point, we would be committed to reaching our exit at Collins Trailhead, whether we found water or not.
Our entry point was Bullet Canyon. A name that conjures up images of speed and quickness. Our destination for the first night was a cliff dwelling called Perfect Kiva, which is about 4.6 miles from the trailhead. My recollection of the trail into Bullet Canyon was that it was relatively easy, dropping gently into the Grand Gulch. I would later realize that my mind had annoyingly left out some of the sections that were not all that gentle. However, Bullet Canyon is one of the easier entry points into the Grand Gulch. It also has sections that can be difficult to navigate with heavy packs, particularly if you miss the side trail before the boulder field, which we did.
We followed some rock cairns that led us into a section of boulders, which helped us navigate the relatively challenging section. But by the end, I was fairly exhausted by the time we arrived at Perfect Kiva. All of us agreed that the boulder section took a lot out of us. The last time I had hiked the trail in Bullet Canyon, I was in my 20s and a bit more, shall we say, spry. I was also carrying a lot more water than usual on top of heavy camera gear.
Everything looked different from the last time I had been in Bullet Canyon, especially the lower section. It was apparent that some of the older sections of the trail had long been washed away by floods, and the old campsite near Perfect Kiva had grown over. But after about 5 hours of hiking, we arrived and found a small sandy area to set up our tents, then rested a bit before heading up to the site.
Perfect Kiva is a special place for me because of the numerous trips that started and ended there over the years. It is a transformative place that connects memories of past trips with the people who were there, some of whom are no longer alive. Yet, the memories, people, and connections to this special place remain. It is one of the more healing and connective aspects of backcountry travel to such unique and remote places. Our return meant I felt a renewed connection to those people and that time, and we were adding to that connection, building new shared memories that now tied our group and time to this place.
Much of the camera gear I brought was specifically along to try and capture a night shot of the kiva under the stars. Feeling pretty drained after our hike, I decided to go up just before sunset and wait until the stars were visible. Like many approaches to dwellings in the Grand Gulch, the hike up to Perfect Kiva has steep slickrock sections that can be tricky to navigate, especially in the dark, and areas where a misstep could be painful and possibly disastrous.
I continued taking occasional photos as the sunset faded away, and the day slowly turned to night. My son, who was helping me, spoke up excitedly when he saw a shooting star dart across the alcove opening. He thought I may have captured it because he thought the camera shutter might have been open at the time. I quickly looked at the screen on my camera, but saw nothing that looked like a shooting star. Several days later, after I returned home and had a chance to see the photo on a larger screen, I confirmed that he was right; it had been captured. It turned out to be an amazing photoand instantly became one of my favorites of the trip. We enjoyed a beautiful night under the stars, but everyone was tired from the day’s adventures and turned in pretty early.
On day two, we backpacked down to the confluence of Bullet Canyon and Grand Gulch (Bullet Junction), where we had a brief lunch before leaving our backpacks and heading up canyon to Sheik’s Canyon. The hike to Bullet Junction is about 2.6 miles from Perfect Kiva, and the hike to the mouth of Sheik’s Canyon is 1.6 miles up canyon from the junction. Our path that morning took us past Jailhouse Ruin, which is less than a half mile down canyon from Perfect Kiva. Taking only a minute to view it from the trail, but did not scramble up to it for a closer look, but would have if we did not have so many miles to cover that day. We had several miles of backpacking to complete that day, including the 3+ mile day hike up the Grand Gulch to try to locate water before heading below Bullet Junction, when we would essentially be committing ourselves to coming out of Collin’s Canyon and through the canyon section, where finding water was less certain.
Sheik’s Spring is typically one of the best places to get water, as the spring is fairly reliable and often flows in the driest conditions. I was fairly confident we would be successful in finding good water there despite the nasty brackish water that we found at Bullet Junction Spring. We were pleasantly surprised to see a group of people around the spring when we got there, which likely meant water was present. We explored the area a bit before eventually making our way to the spring that was flowing enough for the water to be clear and taste good.
By the time we returned to Bullet Junction is was late afternoon. We had less than three hours of light, storm clouds were increasing, and light rain had intermittently fallen on our hike back to Bullet Junction. We also had about 3 miles of rough terrain to navigate before we could reach the next decent camp at Green Canyon. As such, we changed plans and decided to camp at Bullet Junction for our second night, which undoubtedly turned out to be the right decision. But we also paid a price for staying, meaning we would have to make up the mileage over the remaining days of our trip.
The next day, we set out on the trail fairly early, but the pace was almost instantly much slower than the previous days due to the trail conditions. I had hiked this section before and recalled it being difficult, mostly because we ended up walking through the flowing creek, which took its toll on our feet and energy levels from repeatedly going up and down the riverbank to get around snags and avoid the water. This time seemed worse, even though the creek bed was dry. It soon became apparent that many of the older trails had all but grown over or were simply gone due to flooding. There were numerous areas where we had to get down on all fours to crawl under downed trees or climb up and down steep inclines along the riverbed to get around impassable snags, which occurred considerably more this time compared to past years. Virtually all of the “trail” below Bullet Junction follows the riverbed, which can be hard on the ankles and feet as you navigate miles of rocks of all sizes and shapes.
We reached Green Canyon after about 3.5 to 4 hours of fairly strenuous hiking, as expected, and it turned out to be the most difficult section of our trip. We walked a short distance up the canyon to see if the spring was flowing. The spring had a light flow, similar to Sheik’s, but the water was the best we found on our trip. We spent some time exploring the amazing canyon, then moved on. Step Canyon was about 1.3 miles further down the canyon, where we would take a break and eat lunch. Step Canyon is one of my favorite places in the Grand Gulch because it has some of the most colorful and captivating rock art anywhere. It is also one of the most difficult places to access, no matter how you try to reach it. We spent close to an hour there before heading off to squeeze out a couple more miles before dark.
After another hour or so of hiking, we arrived at Dripping Canyon. In my research before the trip, I had come across a couple of reports suggesting the campsite near the mouth of the canyon had grown over with vegetation. Many reports also suggested that camping was not very good around Dripping Canyon, and that proved true. But the sky was clouding up, and the conditions suggested that it was going to rain at any moment. We were also pretty tired, and it seemed best to find a place to camp for the night. Otherwise, I would have pushed for us to continue a little over a mile further to Cow Tank Canyon, which had better camping.
Being the seasoned group of backpackers that we are, we decided to camp on a less-than-ideal sand deposit in front of the canyon, which turned out to be one of my favorite camps and was fairly protected from the elements. We quickly set up camp and began making dinner when a sudden gust of wind hit, accompanied by large drops of rain. We scrambled about, throwing things into tents, donning rain gear, and some jumped into their tents as the rain became steadier. The rain and wind passed after a few minutes, and we were once again relaxing in our chairs, preparing dinner, and for some, enjoying a small cocktail. The rain held off long enough for us to eat dinner and enjoy some time together before turning in for the night. After only a few hours of sleep, all of us were awakened by strong gusts of wind and rain that were quickly intensifying. We were lucky to be in our tents during the trip's worst downpour, but we were also near some dead trees that I hoped would not come down in the wind. The rain also meant that we would probably have better access to water for the remainder of the trip, which we did.
We started our fourth day fairly early again. The sky was overcast, and it looked like the sky could open up and rain at any minute. Knowing we had to cover about 8 to 9 miles of backpacking down a creek bed was a little unnerving. A good downpour could mean walking miles through water or even navigating areas of quicksand. Even worse, it could mean we would see floodwaters and have to wait before we could continue. All of these outcomes are possible in the Grand Gulch with heavy rain.
Within a mile or two, we were covering terrain that none of us had ever seen before. We were soon passing amazing rock art panels high up on the sides of the canyon walls. A short distance later, we passed Two Story Ruin, which is just what the name suggests, a cliff dwelling with what appears to be an intact second-floor room complete with a partial roof. A short distance further, we came upon a large cliff dwelling, which we took the time to hike up to and explore. But we also passed other amazing dwellings because we had limited time and wanted to spend time at other sites, like Big Man Panel, which we would pass that day.
Having to limit the number of places you explore is a common experience in the Grand Gulch. There are so many dwellings and rock art sites throughout the canyon system that it typically becomes necessary, unless you have unlimited time. On the other hand, it is also true that many sites are easy to miss, as one hikes through thick vegetation and the vastness of the countless side canyons, terraces, and hidden coves throughout Grand Gulch. The rocky terrain also means it is hard to take your eyes off the trail for long.
Day 4 turned out to be my favorite day of our trip for a number of reasons, but mostly because we came across so many new sites in that section that I had never seen before. We made Big Pour Off by about 5 pm and found a deep pool of standing water there that we could filter. We camped in the area, and it turned out to be a beautiful night with clear skies and an amazingly bright canopy of stars. It was the coldest night of our trip, which helped motivate some to retreat to their tents and sleeping bags for warmth.
One unique feature of the Grand Gulch area is its dark skies, which result from the absence of nearby large cities. And while it is true that there is significantly more light pollution today compared to when I first started exploring this area, it is still one of the darkest skies in the U.S. The closest lights are from the Monument Valley area, which is still many miles away. Hopefully, people pay more attention to light pollution in places like Grand Gulch and take steps to avoid repeating the misfortunes of places like Moab, Utah, where city lights now degrade the night sky of amazing places like Arches and Canyonlands National Parks.
We did not break any records getting out of camp the next morning. We enjoyed the morning and took some time to dry out our gear and clothing before loading up to hike out to the trailhead. We had about 7 miles of hiking to reach the confluence with Collins Canyon, and another 2 miles up Collins to the trailhead. We stopped for lunch at Banister Ruin and then hiked pretty much nonstop until just before the mouth of Collin’s Canyon, where we took another short break. We had a little trouble finding the trail up Collin’s Canyon, but managed to figure it out with a little help from the GPS. So much of the canyon had changed since I had last been there, and none of the trails were really marked by cairns, as they had in the past. After a few more hours of hiking up Collins Canyon, we reached the trailhead and the end of our 5-day trip at around 5:30 pm. I was elated to have accomplished what we had set out to do and relieved to finally take my heavy backpack off for a while. There was also a note of sadness from being at the end of such an amazing trip.
Things to Consider and Final Thoughts
Hiking 30 miles in five days allowed us to explore many incredible sites that simply would have had to be passed up with fewer days. It also allowed us the flexibility we needed to adjust things, so we did not have to take unnecessary risks, like backpacking in the dark and rain. I understand some people complete this section in three days, which is certainly possible if you are in good shape and have a reasonably weighted backpack. However, one would need to spend all three days essentially hiking most of the time, likely starting early in the morning and ending late in the day. That would also depend on water conditions and the ease of access to water. For me, the main point of hiking a place like Grand Gulch is to explore and experience the unique rock art and incredibly preserved dwellings. Four days seems like the minimum for this section, which would still limit time and ability to explore sites. Even with five days, we had to pass some up due to time constraints, and we undoubtedly missed some because we needed to focus on the ground to avoid injury. In some areas, it was difficult to see the canyon walls because they were largely obscured by vegetation.
Grand Gulch is considered a moderate-to-strenuous trail. The side canyons and entry points can have areas of exposure where a fall would be disastrous. It is described by some as highly challenging, which is why I would not recommend it to inexperienced backpackers for multi-day trips into the deeper backcountry. I spent years doing day hikes and one or two night trips to stay within my abilities, which ultimately increased my abilities and knowledge more safely while still having fun and exploring new places. Even then, I learned some tough lessons along the way, like clogging my water filter early on a trip, getting turned around and somewhat lost for a short period of time, and having close calls with flash floods that were deadly for other groups.
Access to Collins Trailhead requires a high-clearance vehicle and includes one steep section that would be difficult to navigate without four-wheel drive, especially during or immediately after heavy rains. It is possible to park before this section and walk to the trailhead, but it would add a half a mile or more to the walking, depending on where one parks. Access to Bullet Trailhead can be challenging immediately after or during heavy rain, but it is generally accessible without a high-clearance vehicle or four-wheel drive.
One should have good navigation and map-reading skills, as many trails are unmarked and people tend to get turned around in the labyrinth of canyons that make up the Grand Gulch drainage system. GPS is not always reliable, as we found at one point on our trip, but it can also be very helpful, as it did in helping us find our exit at the mouth of Collins Canyon. Relying solely on GPS for navigation can also be risky, as it is prone to technological issues. Having a good topographic map and solid map-reading skills is always a good backup.
The hike between Kane Gulch and Bullet Canyon has more consistent, visible trails because it is the most popular section in the canyon. The trail down the canyon from Bullet Junction is generally less popular and has been pretty much reclaimed by nature. Many of the older trails are now gone due to floodwaters and years of drought, making it easier for people to follow the dry riverbed rather than finding ways around the running creek. Perhaps less trail maintenance is also an issue, given that so much government funding has been removed over recent years.
It is recommended to do some research ahead of time to learn about current water conditions and expected weather. Backpacking or even day hiking for miles in running water will significantly impact feet and energy levels, which I have experienced myself. Even worse, heavier rain can trigger flash floods within minutes in these drainage systems, leaving people waiting for the water to subside for hours and leaving a muddy trail for the remainder of the trip. Fires are not permitted in Grand Gulch or its tributaries, so make sure you have the right gear for the conditions.
Another important skill to develop is talking to people along the trail to learn where they have been, where to find water, and to share important information. The kind of information you would probably like to know (e.g., trail conditions, animal sightings). Two people we spoke to on our trip gave us good information that we used to find water in the section none of us had previously hiked. They also clogged their filters relatively quickly on their trip and were now boiling water to purify it, which is similar to my own experiences when I first started exploring the Grand Gulch.
If you are filtering water, keep the intake end of your filter away from sand or debris, and try to pump from clearer, flowing water when possible. It only takes a moment of carelessness to clog a filter. If possible, use a bandana or other piece of cloth over the filter intake hose to help keep debris out, especially in murkier water sources, which may be all you can access at times.
Like all outdoor experiences, safety should always be at the forefront of one’s mind in the Grand Gulch. Severe injury or sickness likely means being medivacked, as there is no easy way out. Utah-based providers like AirMed list a base rate of more than $17,000 plus $230 per mile for a basic medevac. Even a minor illness or injury could significantly slow progress on any backpacking trip.
Stay within your limits and consider shorter trips if it is your first time in an environment where you need to rely on natural water sources. Additionally, there are many dwellings and other sites that require scrambling and even climbing to get close. Staying within your capabilities is critical to everyone having a safe and enjoyable trip. Even for people who are not part of your party, who will likely derail their own plans to help someone in a life-or-death situation, which has happened numerous times in Grand Gulch.
Finally, do not touch rock art with your hands or otherwise. Oils on one’s hands permanently damage the natural paints used to make pictographs and build up oils and residue that also degrade petroglyphs (carved/pecked) with each incident. Do not chalk or spray rock art with water to make it more visible. Chalking is less of an issue today, but just last year, while I was on another backpacking trip, someone we came across while filtering water mentioned they wanted to bring a spray bottle to a nearby rock art site to make the pictographs more visible. DO NOT DO THIS! Many sites still exist today precisely because they are sheltered from elements like water, wind, and sunlight. Take a picture or make a drawing of the rock art instead. Additionally, modern photography techniques can bring out and amplify the worn and faded images of rock art without using water.
Stay out of dwellings. Many are hundreds of years old, and one light bump could be enough to topple fragile walls and roofs. For the protection of dwellings and visitors, Bears Ears National Monument has imposed regulations prohibiting entry to virtually all dwellings. As we found, many cliff dwellings throughout the canyon have small signs telling people to stay out in their entryways. The region is also known for Hantavirus, a deadly disease transmitted through rodent droppings that can be present in the dust kicked up in places like ancient dwellings. Staying out of dwellings is the best way to protect your own health. For this reason, it is also a good idea to avoid kicking up excess dust in alcoves and around dwellings.
Grand Gulch is truly an amazing place to backpack! It is a rare treasure, unlike any other place on earth, which is why it is worth every effort to preserve it for future generations to experience. If you are lucky enough to go there, you are part of a collective thread of care spanning generations that made such experiences possible for you. Pay it forward!